Looking for the most common TTR 230 problems or just need to fix an issue on the dirt bike you already have?
In this article, I’ll show you the most common problems this Yamaha TTR dirt bike has, what causes it, and how to fix it.
Any major common issues on the TTR 230?
With that said, there’s no perfect dirt bike that never has problems, and that’s I’m going to cover typical issues that happen due to lack of maintenance, from sitting too long, or from a crash.
Is your TTR230 hard to start? It could be for a number of reasons, so let’s start with the easiest solutions.
These are ether most common reasons why your TTR 230 won’t start:
- Petcock not on/gas too low
- Choke not on
- Carb is dirty
- Battery is too weak/dead
- Air filter clogged
- Jetting is off
- Spark plug fouled
- Low compression
- No spark
If you hear a “clicking” noise when pushing the starter button, that means the battery is dead. Simply recharge it or replace it.
If there’s no sound at all, then there could be a loose or corroded wire/ground. It could also be a bad kill switch, especially if you crashed and broke it (on the handlebars).
Besides jetting, the biggest reason why I don’t like having a carburetor is that they can get dirty and cause problems very quickly – especially with today’s poor quality pump gas.
Carb problems can cause your TTR 230 to:
- Not start
- Not idle
- Run poorly – difficult to ride
- Foul spark plugs
- Get poor gas mileage
- Be low on power
Won’t stay running
Maybe you can get it started sometimes but it won’t stay running. If that’s happening, then it’s probably one of these things causing it not to idle:
- Idle RPM is too low
- Pilot jet clogged
- Dirty carb
- Incorrect jetting
Has no power
A TTR230 doesn’t have a ton of power, to begin with, but if it’s lacking more than usual, it could be due to a dirty carb, a dirty air filter, or poor jetting.
Low engine compression is also a common cause of low power because it’s not efficiently burning the fuel mixture. It might just need new piston rings or a full top-end rebuild.
One of the jetting circuits itself may be too lean (too much air). A low-end bog is usually from a lean pilot jet circuit, while a full-throttle bog is generally from a lean main jet or needle clip position.
A dirty pilot jet often causes a bog because it’s the “dirt” in the jet is essentially making it act like a smaller size pilot jet – a leaner air-fuel mixture.
An air leak will also cause bogging, as well as a high idle or hanging idle. This could be a tear or hole in the intake boot, or you might have just forgotten to properly tighten the intake boot clamp or bolt.
Maybe your TTR230 has a slipping clutch that makes it feel like it’s hitting a false neutral when you try to accelerate hard. It can also be lacking power because the clutch isn’t fully disengaging.
First, make sure the clutch lever is properly adjusted. There should be just a very small amount of “free play” or wiggle in the lever before you start feeling pressure when pulling it in towards the handlebar.
It could also be caused by worn clutch fibers (or they’re just so old from sitting too long). When the fibers on the clutch plates get too worn or hard, they can’t “grip” or get proper traction on the metal clutch discs.
This makes them “slip” off, which gives you a slipping clutch. Simply replace the fibers with new fiber plates.
Also, look at the metal discs – if they’re discolored blue then they’ve been overheated and need to be replaced. The clutch basket shouldn’t have any grooves or notches where the plate “tabs” go.
If your TTR230 is hard to find neutral or the clutch won’t fully disengage, then the clutch is dragging because the plates aren’t separating far enough apart. This is usually due to an incorrectly adjusted clutch, a bad installation, or a worn clutch basket.
With the proper amount of free play in the clutch lever, you will be able to fully disengage the clutch. You can adjust this at the clutch perch or the bottom cable adjuster near the clutch cover arm.
Using the wrong plates or not properly installing the clutch will cause problems. So, if you just did a clutch rebuild and there’s a problem, lay the bike on its side and take the cover off to inspect what might be wrong.
The clutch basket could also be grooved, making it “notchy” or sticky when pulling the lever in. The grooves can be filed down to an extent, but it’s best to replace the basket.
Is your TTR 230 making engine noises? It might be time for a rebuild, but first, check if there’s oil in it.
If it’s empty or not showing on the dipstick, it probably got too hot and did some top-end damage. The only decent way to inspect inside the engine without removing the cylinder head is with a borescope (Amazon).
A worn timing chain will make a lot of noise and is a common problem when the engine oil has been low for too long. It will get louder as the engine RPM increases.
Not replacing the timing chain when it’s worn will eventually cause a catastrophic engine seizure. If you hear a new noise, it’s always best to stop and inspect before you break down and/or get hurt from crashing because your bike locks up.
Even on a 4-stroke engine, a top-end rebuild is not that bad on a TTR 230 if you have an OEM service manual and follow it step-by-step. One of the few “special” tools you’ll want to get is a good torque wrench so that you don’t under tighten or over tighten any of the engine nuts or bolts.