4 Stroke Jetting "Made Easy"

How To Make Your 4-Stroke Dirt bike “Run Right” In Half The Time of Guessing So It Starts Easily, and Idles & Revs Consistently Without Bogging, Even If You're A Beginner 

Learn my beginner-friendly 3-step "Sounds & Symptoms“ tuning method to properly fix or tune your carb in minutes by using a simple throttle test to know where the problem is coming from, and then my hilariously practical "braap language" to know if it's still rich or lean!

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Properly tuning a carburetor is NOT complex. You don't need to be a "magician" to get your bike to run right.

If you can't tell whether it's running rich or lean, it has both symptoms, or you're unsure what each component does and where to start, it's time to stop wasting your time from "guessing" what to change next!

Sound familiar?

I used to waste a lot of time troubleshooting jetting symptoms, but it mainly comes down to 2 things.

Is it running too rich or too lean, and how do you tell the difference?

And where is the problem actually coming from, so that you know what to change and how much?

After 15 years of tuning dozens of 2-stroke and 4-stroke dirt bikes, I've discovered a simple method to solve this problem.

The secret is the "Sounds & Symptoms" tuning method!

Your dirt bike is already telling you what's wrong with it. You just have to know what it's telling you. It's not some magical "voodoo" language. It's actually very easy to learn and understand, even if you're new to dirt bikes and carburetors.

No GUESSING whether you have an air screw or fuel screw, or what it actually does, no making random changes HOPING it will make your bike run better, only to get LOST and have to set everything back to what the "factory recommends" (which often isn't the best because it's too rich or too lean for your specific bike and climate).

Here's Exactly How It Works:

• Step 1 - Rule Out The Simple Stuff "Cheat Sheet" - A simple checklist that covers the most common and easily forgotten issues, such as: not turning on the gas or choke, or forgetting a rag in the air box.
• Step 2 - "Narrow Down The Circuit" Throttle Position Test - A simple riding test that accurately tells you where the symptom is coming from in the carb, such as pilot or main jet, so that you don't waste time guessing
• Step 3 - "Rich or Lean" Symptoms Checklist - Using practical (and sometimes funny) sounds as a reference, it's easy to recognize whether your dirt bike has a rich bog or lean bog, as well as other common symptoms

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7 ALARMING "Rich or Lean" Jetting Symptoms

In case you didn't recognize a problem already, here are common signs that your carburetor isn't working or tuned properly:

1. Won't start after sitting for 6+ months
2. Takes more than 3 kicks (or 3 seconds w/ E-start) to start at least half of the time
3. Hanging/inconsistent idle - RPM is slow to settle or goes up and down
4. Bogging when accelerating, whether partial or full throttle
5. Backfiring or loud popping on deceleration when you shut the throttle off
6. Leaking fuel out of the carb overflow
7. Poor gas mileage - you run out of gas before everyone else in your group

If you have any one of these problems, this is 100% for YOU!

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Does your 4-stroke take 10+ kicks to start after following "Factory" jetting specs?

Alan Davis, a student from Texas, found out that using the jets recommended by the factory in his son's Honda CRF150R didn't work the best.

"The result of that jet change attempt resulted in a "no start" situation after kicking it for several minutes."

Not only is that exhausting to kick it over that many times, it's like you just wasted money on a new bike and now you can't even ride it!

What if you have rich AND lean symptoms? [Bogging & Sputtering]

Does your bike BOG when you snap the throttle, but it sputters when you hold the throttle consistently at ⅛-turn?

That makes it very hard to enjoy riding!

Every time you want to accelerate, it hesitates, and you never know if it will actually go or take time to "spool up", kind of like an old-school 2-stroke powerband.

Maybe you've already tried changing pilot jets, the spark plug, and cleaning the carb, but it's still not running right!

Does it make you want to sell the bike and "splurge" on a new fuel-injected bike?

That sounds expensive, and I don't blame you.

But if you're still using the original OEM carb, there's a simple way to fix it.

It starts with understanding how your carb actually works and how to recognize problems in seconds so that you stop guessing.

Interested in learning how?

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However, Many People Makes These MISTAKES:

• Using what the manual recommends for jets
• Cleaning with "carb cleaner" spray
• GUESSING rich or lean, which way to adjust the jetting
• Making multiple changes at once
• Buying a new "eBay/Amazon" $35 carburetor
• Using "Race Gas" or Avgas in a stock engine
• Just dealing with the symptoms and not doing anything because you're afraid of making it worse

If you've tried one of these and your 4 stroke dirt bike is still not running right, don't worry, you're not alone!

Here's why they DON'T always work:

1. The manual is a guideline - it's a good starting point for what jets to use, but every bike is a little bit different, and many other factors affect air/fuel ratio, such as temperature and elevation
2. Spraying "carb cleaner" doesn't always do a proper cleaning job of the tiny jets and passages, and it actually RUINS gaskets and seals, especially when left to soak
3. You might get "lucky" guessing richer or leaner, but you'll never truly understand how a carburetor works or why your problem was fixed, if it even gets better
4. Making more than one change at a time is an easy way to get confused because you don't know which change helped or made the symptoms worse
5. Cheaper $35 carbs have poor quality control, making them more difficult to tune and much less reliable than your OEM carb (original carbs can be rebuilt to work properly 99% of the time, from my experience)
6. Higher octane "race gas" or AVgas (100-110+ octane) is great for "High compression" engines to prevent detonation, but they are a slower burning fuel, causing the jetting to be richer, even if you changed nothing else
7. A poorly running bike is a recipe for more maintenance, less enjoyment because your bike is harder to control, and more potential accidents if you LOSE control!

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Why listen to me?

I'm just some random guy on the internet, right?

I started just like you, knowing virtually NOTHING about carburetors, jetting, and troubleshooting symptoms.

I felt intimidated because it was new to me, and I didn't know where to start, even though I had done quite a bit of reading on dirt bike forums online.

However, I was forced into tuning my bike back in 2015.

I was on a 10-day trail riding trip to Colorado, and my bike didn't want to start.

I knew it would require some changes because it's 8,000-12,000 feet higher in elevation than home in Minnesota.

I got it running, and that's when I got "hooked".

Hooked on learning how to perfectly "dial in", troubleshoot, and tune a dirt bike carburetor to run as close to "fuel injected" feeling as possible.

If there's one thing I HATE, it's a poor running bike.

It KILLS the enjoyment of trail riding, and it's downright DANGEROUS, especially if I have a new rider hop on one of our bikes that has unpredictable throttle response!

Now I've been helping riders just like you get their dirt bikes "running right" with my content, as well as online coaching.

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What If You Get STUCK?

Whether you've already tried changing jets, cleaning the carb, or replacing it with a new one, or you're afraid of "making it worse", don't worry!

If you need personalized help to get your bike "running right", I'm going to open up my schedule so that you can do a 1-on-1 video chat with me to troubleshoot your specific problem, ask questions, and troubleshoot your bike together to get even faster results with less guessing!

The call will be very "relaxed", as I know it's not always easy to get on a video call with a stranger for the first time. There's no pressure to "perform", or ask the "perfect questions".
I'll just be asking you simple questions to help us both understand the problem, and then you'll be given a simple but practical "plan of attack" so that you know where to start to diagnose and get your bike running right in less than half the time so that you can get riding again!

Normally, I charge $500 for one troubleshooting call, but since you're on my email list and have gotten this far, I'm going to make you a one-time special offer...

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Introducing...

4 Stroke Jetting "Made Easy"

How to make your 4-stroke dirt bike have better power AND reliability with easier starting by quickly diagnosing and fixing "rich or lean" jetting symptoms in minutes and NOT hours or days of guessing - even if you're new to 4-stroke carb tuning!

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Alan's CRF150R went from "no start" to "starts with 1-2 kicks" with smooth power!

The last attempt at a jet change we followed an OEM shop manual, this was before I found you on YouTube. The result of that jet change attempt resulted in a "no start" situation after kicking it for several minutes. Since using your jetting guide, my son's CRF150R is running perfectly! Now it starts with 1 to 2 kicks and has smooth power throughout the entire throttle range! We really appreciate you helping out the MX community.

-Alan Davis (TX)

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Howard's KTM 525 now "starts easier" after learning how to adjust his carb!

“I am trying to diagnose a starting issue with a 2007 Polaris Outlaw 525 (same engine/carb as KTM 525).  It also has a problem sometime of a hanging idle and erratic throttle control.  With your guide, I believe I either have a partial plug in the idle circuit or I need to go up one size with the pilot jet.  Very good guide!  After adjusting the carb, I find that it starts easier.”

-Howard Koehn,  New Mexico

My bike had a "hanging throttle" symptom. This guide helped my find the jet circuit issue to fix it.

-Curtis Denenny

Glen solved his DRZ400 "Popping on decel" problem!

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Choose Which Package Is Best For You!

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What You'll Learn:

• What is causing your rich or lean symptom in 60 seconds using my 4-stroke troubleshooting "cheat sheet"
• How your carburetor works and what each jet/needle does
• How to easily recognize & identify carb jetting problems
• The surprisingly funny but practical sounds to know if it's RICH or LEAN using my "braap language" method
• How to know which jet circuit to change without guessing, using my proven "Throttle Position" test
• The top MISTAKES that make carb tuning CONFUSING, why, and what to do instead
• How to get more power AND increase reliability
• What to do if it seemingly doesn't respond to any change

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What's Included:

• The Step-By-Step Beginner's Troubleshooting Guide to troubleshoot, diagnose, and tune any 4-stroke Dirt Bike Carb (Keihin/Mikuni, etc.) in HALF the time! (Video Course + PDF Guide)
• Personalized "Done With You" Troubleshooting/Coaching Call ("Platinum Package" only) - After your purchase, you'll be able to book your 60-minute "no pressure" troubleshooting video call with me via Zoom on the first lesson page by clicking on the link in the description. You can also email me video clips of your bike symptoms!
• Works with Keihin FCR MX/Slant, PD Pumper/Non, PE or Mikuni TM Flatslide Pumper/Non, VM, or similar carburetors
• Brand New for 2025 [Based on the popular 2 Stroke Jetting Made Easy Guide]!
• Lifetime Access & Support - watch, read, download, & print it from anywhere, anytime.
• BONUS #1 - The "60-Second" Quick Reference Troubleshooting "Cheat Sheet": a practical and quick-to-follow chart to troubleshoot jetting symptoms (Bogging, won't idle, hard to start, etc.)
• Bonus #2 - An "Unforgettable" Personal Jetting chart to record your settings for different elevations (so that you don't waste time tuning because you forgot your previous settings)
• BONUS #3 - The "Safe Way" Carb Cleaning/Rebuilding Tutorial: video training showing you how to properly clean and completely rebuild a carburetor without ruining the gaskets and how to spot issues that will cause a bike to run poorly.

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Any Requirements?

• Have basic tools (screwdriver/wrenches/ruler or caliper)
• Know how to turn a screwdriver or wrench (clockwise or counterclockwise rotation)
• Can read and count (jets have numbers stamped on them for sizes)
• Know how to record a measurement (float height - if needed)
• You can work with gas (some jet changes require quickly draining the gas from the carb)

How Long Will This Take?

• 60 seconds to troubleshoot what's causing the jetting symptom (using the "cheat sheet")
• 5-15 minutes to read or watch the training on how to fix/tune the problem that you just diagnosed using the cheat sheet
• 1-5 minutes to make most major jetting changes
• Or 15-60 minutes for some less common jetting changes

What Dirt Bikes Will This Work For?

This will work on any 4-stroke dirt bike or motorcycle with a conventional carburetor that has a pilot jet, needle, main jet, and float that control the air-fuel mixture.

This means that you can use it on a Honda CRF50F, Kawasaki KLX140, Yamaha YZ450F, and any bike in between (and more!)

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Guaranteed Results TODAY or Your Money Back!

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Do You Want Your 4-Stroke Dirt Bike To:

• Better power AND reliability so you can have more fun while doing less frequent engine rebuilds?
• Start "1st-Kick" every time (hot or cold) so you don't kill your right leg or battery trying to get it going?
• Idle consistently so that it doesn't keep stalling if you don't give it gas?
• Crisp throttle response at every RPM so that it's enjoyable and easier to control?

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Choose Which Package Is Best For You!