2 Stroke Jetting "Made Easy"

How To Make Your 2 Stroke "Run Right" So It Starts Easy (Hot or Cold), Idles Properly, CRISP Throttle Response, With Better Power AND Reliability

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FRUSTRATING Signs You Have A Carb Tuning PROBLEM

1. Won't start or stay running after sitting for 6+ months
2. Takes 5+ kicks to start your bike (hot or cold)
3. Hanging idle - RPM is slow or inconsistent to settle after letting off the throttle
4. Bogging or inconsistent throttle response when accelerating
5. Fouling spark plugs within the first 2 minutes unless you keep revving it
6. Leaking fuel when the petcock is ON (or when the bike is leaning on the kickstand)

If you have any one of these problems, this is 100% for YOU!

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Do You Want Your 2-Stroke Dirt Bike To:

• Start "1st-Kick" every time 
• Idle consistently
• Crisp throttle response at every RPM 
• Better power AND reliability

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They're Usually Caused By One of These:

• Bike sitting 6+ months with gas in it
• Incorrect jetting from the factory or the previous owner
• Poor/wrong gas quality 
• Wrong type/ratio of oil in gas
• Carb is 10+ years old and needs a proper rebuild

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However, Many People Makes These MISTAKES:

• Using what the manual recommends for jets
• Cleaning with carb cleaner spray
• Guessing rich or lean, which way to adjust the jetting
• Making multiple changes at once
• Buying a new eBay/Amazon carburetor
• Always using 32:1 oil mix ratio with the "Best" oil (Dominator/927 Castor)

If you've tried one of these and your 2 stroke is still not running right, don't worry, you're not alone!

Here's why they DON'T always work:

1. The manual is a guideline - it's a good starting point for what jets to use, but every bike is a little bit different, and there are many other factors that affect air/fuel ratio, such as temperature and elevation
2. Spraying "carb cleaner" doesn't always do a proper cleaning job of the tiny jets and passages, and it actually RUINS gaskets and seals, especially when left to soak
3. You might get "lucky" guessing richer or leaner, but you'll never truly understand how a carburetor works or why your problem was fixed, if it even gets better
4. Making more than one change at a time is an easy way to get confused because you don't know which change helped or made the symptoms worse
5. Cheaper $35 carbs have poor quality control, making them more difficult to tune and much less reliable than your OEM carb (original carbs can be rebuilt to work properly 99% of the time, from my experience)
6. 32:1 oil mix ratio is great for racing motocross at full throttle most of the time, but modern 2-stroke oils are much better and "cleaner" burning than the 70s & 80s to prevent engine failures.

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Why listen to me?

I'm just some random guy on the internet, right?

I started just like you, knowing virtually NOTHING about carburetors, jetting, and troubleshooting symptoms.

I felt intimidated because it was new to me and didn't know where to start, even though I had done quite a bit of reading on dirt bike forums online.

However, I was forced into tuning my bike back in 2015.

I was on a 10-day trail riding trip to Colorado and my bike didn't want to start.

I knew it would require some changes because it's 8,000-12,000 feet higher in elevation than home in Minnesota.

I got it running, and that's when I got "hooked".

Hooked on learning how to perfectly "dial in", troubleshoot, and tune a dirt bike carburetor to run as close to "fuel injected" feeling as possible.

If there's one thing I HATE, it's a poor running bike.

It KILLS the enjoyment of trail riding, and it's downright DANGEROUS, especially if I have a new rider hop on one of our bikes that has unpredictable throttle response!

Now I've been helping riders just like you get their dirt bikes "running right" with my content, as well as online coaching.

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Do you want to keep GUESSING?

If your 2 stroke dirt bike isn't running right, your first option is to keep guessing at what the problem is.

Maybe you've tried cleaning it once, twice, or FIVE times... But it's still not running like it should.

Maybe you tried a brand new carburetor

Or perhaps you rebuilt the top-end but it STILL has the same problem.

Frustrating, isn't it?

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Would you like an easier way to tune your bike?

What if you could easily recognize if your bike is running rich or lean?

And then quickly troubleshoot and identify what the root problem is - in just a few minutes?

I want to help you get your bike running ASAP so that you don't have to miss out on riding or have to pay a "mechanic" hundreds of dollars to get it fixed (hopefully?).

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Carb Tuning Is EASIER Than You Think!

Carburetor tuning is not some "mystical black magic" - if it were, then very few people would be able to do it, and we know that's not the case 🙂

It might be confusing if you've made one of the mistakes above, but after years of tuning dozens of 2-stroke and 4-stroke dirt bikes, I've simplified my process into 3 practical steps:

1. Rule Out The Simple Stuff
2. Narrow Down The Circuit
3. Rich or Lean

Often, just ruling out the simple stuff, such as forgetting the choke on or getting rid of old/bad gas can fix the frustrating symptom.

If not, then step 2 is narrowing down which jet circuit is causing the problem, and a common mistake here is tuning based on what RPM the symptom happens.

This can be confusing because you might think that a low RPM bog is always the pilot jet and a high RPM bog is always the main jet, but that's not always the case.

The third step is identifying whether the symptom is rich or lean.

Do your ears work?

I'm being serious here 🙂 If you can listen and pay attention to the sound your bike is making, then you can do this final step, which is needed to make an accurate tuning adjustment.

There are distinct sounds that a 2 stroke makes when it's rich and when it's lean, so knowing the difference will tell you which way to go on your jetting.

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Introducing...

2 Stroke Jetting "Made Easy"

How to identify, troubleshoot, and tune a 2-stroke dirt bike carb in minutes using my simple "Sounds & Symptoms" tuning method, even if you've tried cleaning it, changing jets, or you're not familiar with carbs

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What others are saying about it:

“I've been around 2 stroke dirt bikes for decades and this guide really helped me to understand carburetor jetting better and which specific jet to focus on, whether it be the pilot, or main jet. Your instructions are awesome. Thanks, Kelley!”

-John Irwin,  Portage,  Pennsylvania

"My 2 stroke was hard to start and smoking after start. Kelley's jetting guide helped me solve both issues. I found the float setting lesson to be most helpful."

-Doug

“This is the best explanation of tuning a Carburetor I have found on the web. Nice thorough process and great explanation on what to do! Thank you!”

-John F Di Fabrizio

Choose Which Package Is Best For You!

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What You'll Learn:

• How your carburetor works and what each jet/needle does
• How to easily recognize & identify carb jetting problems
• The surprisingly "funny" but practical sounds to know if it's RICH or LEAN
• How to know which jet circuit to change without guessing, using my proven "Throttle Position" test
• The top MISTAKES that make carb tuning CONFUSING, why, and what to do instead
• How to get more power AND increase reliability
• What to do if it seemingly doesn't respond to any change
• BONUS: "60-Second" symptom troubleshooting CHEAT-SHEET

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What's Included:

• The Step-By-Step Beginner's Guide to jetting any 2-stroke Dirt Bike Carb (Keihin/Mikuni) in Minutes (Video &/or PDF Guide - Depending on which package)
• Works with Keihin PWK, PJ, PWM, PE, or Mikuni TMX, VM, or similar carburetors (50-500cc 2-strokes: YZ, CR, KX, RM, SX, XC, XCW, TE, TC, etc.)
• Lifetime Access & Support - read, download, & print it from anywhere, anytime
• Bonus #1 - Quick Reference Troubleshooting "Cheat Sheet": a practical and quick-to-follow chart to troubleshoot jetting symptoms (Bogging, won't idle, hard to start, etc.)
• Bonus #2 - A "Time Saving" Personal Jetting chart to record your settings for different elevations (so that you don't waste time tuning because you forgot your previous settings)

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Can you "blow up" an engine by adjusting the jetting?

The truth is, you can ruin any engine if you go too extreme for too long on the jet tuning.

With that said, if you're making one small adjustment at a time and only testing it for a minute or less, it's hard to damage your engine.

It only takes a few seconds to "know" if you made the right change or not, so you're not going to mess it up unless you're making a big change that you know is wrong and riding like that for hours at a time.

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Requirements?

• Have basic tools (screwdriver/wrenches/ruler or caliper)
• Know how to turn a screwdriver or wrench (clockwise or counterclockwise rotation)
• Can read and count (jets have numbers stamped on them for sizes)
• Know how to record a measurement (float height - if needed)
• You can work with gas (some jet changes require quickly draining the gas from the carb)

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How Long Will This Take?

• 30-60 Minutes to read the entire PDF guide (depending on your reading speed)
• Or 5-10 minutes to read one jetting circuit instructions
• 1-5 minutes to make most major jetting changes
• Or 15-60 minutes for some less common jetting changes

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What you'll learn:

• How to get your 2 stroke to start in 1-2 kicks every time
• How to cure "Bogging", whether it's low or high RPM
• How to diagnose and troubleshoot a "hanging/inconsistent idle" in minutes
• How to know which jet circuit to change using my simple "Throttle Position" test
• Know if your bike is running RICH or LEAN based on funny, yet practical "Sounds & Symptoms"- even if you're new to carb tuning
• How to get better power AND reliability so you can ride twice as long before rebuilding the engine
• What to do when changing jets or cleaning the carb doesn't work

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No-Risk Guarantee

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How much is it COSTING you?

$300-400?
That's the average cost to bring your bike to a "mechanic" or bike shop to get a carburetor rebuilt or tuned - this is based on the $100-150 hourly rate that a quality shop charges.

Paying a "professional" mechanic to rebuild or tune your 2-stroke carb certainly has some advantages, such as potentially saving you a lot of time, especially if you've never owned or worked on a dirt bike before.

However, with the increasing cost of living today, many of us "casual trail riders" can't afford to ride dirt bikes AND pay someone else to tune or fix our bikes.

Here are 4 reasons why it's COSTING you more to have a mechanic/shop/dealer fix or tune your dirt bike(s):

1. $80-150 per hour - that's how much most dealers and dirt bike mechanics charge for labor, which means that

• A carb rebuild or tune costs $300 to $400 for one dirt bike - do you need it tuned every year after storage because it doesn't run right?

Oh yeah - those prices are often JUST for labor - they might not include the cost of parts/fluids.

2. Time to schedule & transport bike - You may be saving time not "actually doing the work", but it takes time to call your dealer/mechanic and schedule an appointment/drop off.

Then you need to load your bike, strap it down, drive to your mechanic, unload and drop it off, then drive back home. This alone could easily take 2 hours.

Guess what? You get to do it AGAIN when your bike is ready to be picked up!

There goes 4 hours that could be more than enough time to do the job yourself without leaving your garage...

And you'll do that every time your bike needs to get work done...

Is this REALLY saving you time?

Maybe you do it because you're afraid you'll "mess up" your bike - don't worry, I'll cover that in a minute!

3. Trusting them to do it right - going the "Cheaper" route by trusting a "mechanic" your buddy recommends might get you what you pay for...

I've heard countless stories of people paying a "mechanic friend" to fix their bike, only to end up with a blown engine within an hour of riding it and now it needs more work done than before.

Even "dealer mechanics" can get lazy and not do a proper job the first time, wasting your time having to haul your bike back and forth and calling multiple times until they get it done right.

4. Waiting for them to work on your bike - Most dealers and mechanics require "lead time", meaning you can't just "walk in" with your bike and have them fix it right away.

You will often have to wait at least 1-3 days for basic maintenance, but sometimes up to 1-3 WEEKS if they're busy.

If they have to order parts that are back ordered... Oh boy, you might be without a bike for a MONTH or more.

If your bike has one of these symptoms:

• Won't start
• Won't idle
• Only runs on choke
• Won't idle consistently - slow to settle, revs up high when starting, or is erratic
• Bogs or sputters when accelerating
• Fouls spark plugs every other ride

Why wait when you could just do it yourself the same day if you have the parts and tools (I'll show you which tools you need and they're not expensive - most of them you probably already own)

Get your bike running better than new at a fraction of the price - plus you can charge your buddies $300 when their bikes need to be tuned because you'll have the knowledge and experience to do it yourself!

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Choose Which Option Is Best For You!