4 Stroke Jetting "Made Easy"

What If Your Bike Could Start In "1-Kick", Idle Properly, and Run CRISP To Full Throttle...

Learn The Simple 3 Step-Process To Recognize & Correct Jetting Issues Based On Sounds & Symptoms - Even If You’re New To Dirt Bikes

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“I am trying to diagnose a starting issue with a 2007 Polaris Outlaw 525 (same engine/carb as KTM 525).  It also has a problem sometime of a hanging idle and erratic throttle control.  With your guide, I believe I either have a partial plug in the idle circuit or I need to go up one size with the pilot jet.  Very good guide!  After adjusting fuel screw out to 3 turns, I find that it starts easier.”

-Howard Koehn,  New Mexico

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5 FRUSTRATING Signs You Have A Carb/Jetting PROBLEM

1. Bogging when accelerating, whether partial or full throttle
2. Takes more than 3 kicks (or 3 seconds w/ E-start) to start at least half of the time
3. Backfiring or loud popping on deceleration when you shut the throttle off
4. Hanging/inconsistent idle - RPM is slow to settle or goes up and down
5. Rich AND Lean jetting symptoms

If you have ANY ONE of these symptoms then...

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You've probably made 1 of these common mistakes that make tuning CONFUSING...

• Tuning and making jetting adjustments based on RPM
• Rebuilding or "Cleaning" the carb with carb cleaner and compressed air
• Installing a new $35 carburetor from Amazon or eBay...
• Making more than 1 change at a time trying to fix what you "think" is the problem
• Setting it to what the "factory" recommends
• Can’t tell if it’s rich or lean, so you're just guessing which way to go
• Just dealing with the symptoms and not doing anything because you're afraid of making it worse
• Following a jetting chart or what other people are using but you're still getting a frustrating symptom

I felt intimidated by carburetor tuning and changing jets because I didn't want to mess something up and blow up my bike...

But I was forced to "figure it out" when I was on a long dirt biking trip in the Rocky Mountains of Colorado and my bike wouldn't start easily or run well unless I made some carb adjustments.

I wouldn't consider myself "smart", but I eventually figured it out, and how to make the tuning process easier and faster.

I also learned what doesn't work and why carb tuning might confuse many people.

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Carb Tuning Is EASIER Than You Think!

Carburetor tuning is not some "mystical black magic" - if it were, then very few people would be able to do it, and we know that's not the case 🙂

It might be confusing if you've made one of the mistakes above, but after years of tuning dozens of 2 stroke and 4 stroke dirt bikes, I've simplified my process into 3 practical steps:

1. Rule Out The Simple Stuff
2. Narrow Down The Circuit
3. Rich or Lean

Often, just ruling out the simple stuff, such as forgetting the choke on or getting rid of old/bad gas can fix the frustrating symptom.

If not, then step 2 is narrowing down which jet circuit is causing the problem, and a common mistake here is tuning based on what RPM the symptom happens. This can be confusing because you might think that a low RPM bog is always the pilot jet and a high RPM bog is always the main jet, but that's not always the case.

The third step is identifying whether the symptom is rich or lean.

Do your ears work?
I'm being serious here 🙂 If you can listen and pay attention to the sound your bike is making, then you can do this final step, which is needed to make an accurate tuning adjustment.

There are distinct sounds that a 4 stroke makes when it's rich and when it's lean, so knowing the difference will tell you which way to go on your jetting.

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Introducing...

4 Stroke Jetting "Made Easy" [Troubleshooting Guide]

It's the beginner's guide to tuning and troubleshooting any 4-stroke carburetor for smooth, efficient, and reliable power even if you've never touched a carb before.

Choose Which Option Is Best For You!

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What's Included:

• The Step-By-Step Beginner's Troubleshooting Guide to Jetting any 4-stroke Dirt Bike Carb (Keihin/Mikuni, etc.) in Minutes (PDF Guide)
• Works with Keihin FCR MX/Slant, PD Pumper/Non, PE or Mikuni TM Flatslide Pumper/Non, VM, or similar carburetors
• Brand New for 2024 [Based on the popular 2 Stroke Jetting Made Easy Guide]!
• Lifetime Access & Support - read, download, & print it from anywhere, anytime.
• Quick Reference Troubleshooting Guide: a practical and quick-to-follow chart to troubleshoot jetting symptoms
• Bonus - A "Time Saving" Personal Jetting chart to record your settings for different elevations (so that you don't waste time tuning because you forgot your previous settings)

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Any Requirements?

• Have basic tools (screwdriver/wrenches/ruler or caliper)
• Know how to turn a screwdriver or wrench (clockwise or counterclockwise rotation)
• Can read and count (jets have numbers stamped on them for sizes)
• Know how to record a measurement (float height - if needed)
• You can work with gas (some jet changes require quickly draining the gas from the carb)

How Long Will This Take?

• 30-60 Minutes to read the entire PDF guide (depending on your reading speed)
• Or 5-10 minutes to read one jetting circuit instructions
• 1-5 minutes to make most major jetting changes
• Or 15-60 minutes for some less common jetting changes

What Dirt Bikes Will This Work For?

This will work on any 4-stroke dirt bike or motorcycle with a conventional carburetor that has a pilot jet, needle, main jet, and float that control the air-fuel mixture.

This means that you can use it on a Honda CRF50F, Kawasaki KLX140, Yamaha YZ450F, and any bike in between (and more!)

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What you will learn in this 4 Stroke Jetting "Made Easy" Guide:

• How to cure "Bogging", whether it's low or high RPM
• How to easily tune a jet circuit in minutes
• How to know which jet circuit to change
• How to know if your bike is running RICH or LEAN - even if you're new to carb tuning
• How to diagnose and troubleshoot a "hanging/inconsistent idle" in minutes
• How to get better power without ruining or blowing up your engine
• What to do when changing jets doesn't work

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No-Risk Guarantee

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How much is it COSTING you?

$300-400 - that's the average cost to bring your bike to a "mechanic" or bike shop to get a carburetor rebuilt or tuned - this is based on the $100-150 hourly rate that a quality shop charges.

Paying a "professional" mechanic to rebuild or tune your 4-stroke carb certainly has some advantages, such as potentially saving you a lot of time, especially if you've never owned or worked on a dirt bike before.

However, with the increasing cost of living today, many of us "casual trail riders" can't afford to ride dirt bikes AND pay someone else to tune or fix our bikes.

Here are 4 reasons why it's COSTING you more to have a mechanic/shop/dealer fix or tune your dirt bike(s):

1. $80-150 per hour - that's how much most dealers and dirt bike mechanics charge for labor, which means that

• A carb rebuild or tune costs $300 to $400 for one dirt bike - do you need it tuned every year after storage because it doesn't run right?

Oh yeah - those prices are often JUST for labor - they might not include the cost of parts/fluids.

2. Time to schedule & transport bike - You may be saving time not "actually doing the work", but it takes time to call your dealer/mechanic and schedule an appointment/drop off.

Then you need to load your bike, strap it down, drive to your mechanic, unload and drop it off, then drive back home. This alone could easily take 2 hours.

Guess what? You get to do it AGAIN when your bike is ready to be picked up!

There goes 4 hours that could be more than enough time to do the job yourself without leaving your garage...

And you'll do that every time your bike needs to get work done...

Is this REALLY saving you time?

Maybe you do it because you're afraid you'll "mess up" your bike - don't worry, I'll cover that in a minute!

3. Trusting them to do it right - going the "Cheaper" route by trusting a "mechanic" your buddy recommends might get you what you pay for...

I've heard countless stories of people paying a "mechanic friend" to fix their bike, only to end up with a blown engine within an hour of riding it and now it needs more work done than before.

Even "dealer mechanics" can get lazy and not do a proper job the first time, wasting your time having to haul your bike back and forth and calling multiple times until they get it done right.

4. Waiting for them to work on your bike - Most dealers and mechanics require "lead time", meaning you can't just "walk in" with your bike and have them fix it right away.

You will often have to wait at least 1-3 days for basic maintenance, but sometimes up to 1-3 WEEKS if they're busy.

If they have to order parts that are back ordered... Oh boy, you might be without a bike for a MONTH or more.

If your bike has one of these symptoms:

• Won't start
• Won't idle
• Only runs on choke
• Won't idle consistently - slow to settle, revs up high when starting, or is erratic
• Bogs or sputters when accelerating
• Fouls spark plugs every other ride

Why wait when you could just do it yourself the same day if you have the parts and tools (I'll show you which tools you need and they're not expensive - most of them you probably already own)

Get your bike running better than new at a fraction of the price - plus you can charge your buddies $300 when their bikes need to

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Platinum ["Done With You" Package] - Personal Coaching+

• Get 1 troubleshooting call with me (Kelley) via video or phone to troubleshoot your specific problem
• Schedule your call on the page after you sign up
• Step-by-step VIDEO course + troubleshooting videos (bogging/won't idle/backfiring/etc)
• Step-by-step PDF Guide to tuning a 2 stroke dirt bike carburetor
• Lifetime access - view or download wherever there's internet